In The Weeds

In restaurant lingo, to be "in the weeds" is to feel overwhelmed in the thick of chaos. In pre-pandemic times, it often referred to drowning in orders. COVID-19 radically altered the restaurant industry, and brought a different kind of chaos and struggle to those who depend on it to survive. These intimate first person confessions are their stories.

Tommy Brockert started making pizza as a way to bring people together during the pandemic. Now, he has two LaSorted's locations.

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For two decades, Michael Buch has watched Silver Lake change around his shop, Pazzo Gelato.

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Chef Jordan Kahn ushers in a new era of Vespertine.

Jordan Kahn rebirths Vespertine, now anchored by nature and nutrition

Chef Jordan Kahn ushers in a new era of Vespertine.

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Using fresh ingredients and operating out of a gas station, Arezou Appel has made Zooies Cookies a success.

Does the best cookie in Los Angeles come from a gas station?

Using fresh ingredients and operating out of a gas station, Arezou Appel has made Zooies Cookies a success.

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The Ecology Center is a blue dot in a red sea. How did Evan Marks come to run this 28-acre regenerative farm in Orange County?

How San Juan Capistrano’s Ecology Center became an oasis of regenerative farming

The Ecology Center is a blue dot in a red sea. How did Evan Marks come to run this 28-acre regenerative farm in Orange County?

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"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

Making tacos metal with Evil Cooks

"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

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Marc Rose and Med Abrous prepare for Christmas Eve, the busiest night of the year at Chinese restaurant Genghis Cohen.

How Genghis Cohen serves 700 guests every Christmas Eve

Marc Rose and Med Abrous prepare for Christmas Eve, the busiest night of the year at Chinese restaurant Genghis Cohen.

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Brothers Mario and Sal Marino look back on 40 years of Marino Ristorante, where John and Yoko brushed elbows with the likes of John Wayne.

Legend and lore: Marino Ristorante celebrates 40 years on Melrose

Brothers Mario and Sal Marino look back on 40 years of Marino Ristorante, where John and Yoko brushed elbows with the likes of John Wayne.

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Gilberto Centina keeps racking up accolades at Holbox, a top-shelf seafood counter located in Mercado La Paloma.

Gilberto Cetina runs award-winning Holbox, but reluctantly found his way into the kitchen

Gilberto Centina keeps racking up accolades at Holbox, a top-shelf seafood counter located in Mercado La Paloma.

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When Uli Nasibova found ice cream and gelato too sweet, she decided to make her own.

Tiny spoon, big flavors: In the Weeds with Uli's Gelato

When Uli Nasibova found ice cream and gelato too sweet, she decided to make her own.

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In a former dry cleaners with an espresso machine and four cakes on the menu, David Cooley created The Abbey.

The Abbey at 32: How an underdog cafe became an LA queer institution

In a former dry cleaners with an espresso machine and four cakes on the menu, David Cooley created The Abbey.

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After years of luring customers with Chinese staples, Chao Krung’s second generation of owners restore the menu to its traditional Thai glory.

Thai eatery Chao Kung removes Chinese dishes in favor of traditional Thai flavors

After years of luring customers with Chinese staples, Chao Krung’s second generation of owners restore the menu to its traditional Thai glory.

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Minh Phan reopens Historic Filipinotown favorite Porridge + Puffs.

Porridge + Puffs reopens after three years

Minh Phan reopens Historic Filipinotown favorite Porridge + Puffs.

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Shanita Nicholas and Amanda-Jane Thomas left their legal careers in the rearview mirror to open a community-focused coffee shop in Inglewood.

At Inglewood's Sip + Sonder, coffee is the starting point for community

Shanita Nicholas and Amanda-Jane Thomas left their legal careers in the rearview mirror to open a community-focused coffee shop in Inglewood.

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Joe and Celia Ward-Wallace are taking the food and drink of South LA Cafe to the Natural History Museum.

South LA Cafe comes to the Natural History Museum

Joe and Celia Ward-Wallace are taking the food and drink of South LA Cafe to the Natural History Museum.

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"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

Making tacos metal with Evil Cooks

"The McSatan" and "The Bruja" are on the menu at Evil Cooks where Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta are on a mission to "Make Tacos Great Again."

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Chef Johnny Lee steps back from Pearl River Deli to reassess the model, despite its accolades and notorieity.

Beloved Chinatown restaurant Pearl River Deli ready to take a breather

Chef Johnny Lee steps back from Pearl River Deli to reassess the model, despite its accolades and notorieity.

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Ricardo Ortega aims to make tortillas using honest ingredients at his tortilleria, Kernel of Truth Organics.

‘In the Weeds’ with pioneering LA tortilleria Kernel of Truth Organics

Ricardo Ortega aims to make tortillas using honest ingredients at his tortilleria, Kernel of Truth Organics.

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At Bé Ù, Uyên Lê serves Vietnamese comfort and street food while promoting equity and sustainability.

Bánh mì, equity, sustainability are on the menu at Bé Ù

At Bé Ù, Uyên Lê serves Vietnamese comfort and street food while promoting equity and sustainability.

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Chef Scott Zwiezen reopens Elf Cafe in Echo Park with a new look and some new additions to the menu.

Don't call it a comeback: Elf Cafe reopens in Echo Park

Chef Scott Zwiezen reopens Elf Cafe in Echo Park with a new look and some new additions to the menu.

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